Getting around Lake Atitlan

A few days at Lake Atitlan should certainly be on your itinerary for a trip to Guatemala. We have put together a two week itinerary in Guatemala which includes a reasonable stint at Lake Atitlan (for more information on how to get around Guatemala in general, check out our blog Getting Around Guatemala which discusses several transport options for travellers to join up the main tourist hubs of Tikal, Antigua and Lake Atitlan.) One of the main things to do is to at Lake Atitlan is visit the delightful little towns dotted around the lake. There are many parts of the lake with no or poor road access, so the best way to hop from town to town is by boat.

Lake Atitlan water taxi routes

Panajachel is the gateway to the lake and acts as the main transport hub. For that reason, many visitors decide to stay here, although we opted for the smaller, quainter towns of Santa Cruz and San Marcos. The boat service starts early in Panajachel at around 6.30am and there is a boat approximately every 20-30mins thereafter. We say approximately because the captains prefer to wait until the boat is full which can mean you sit on board for 20 minutes or so before departing. The service does end quite early in the evening, however, so it is worth checking when the last boat leaves the town you are in (e.g. the last boat from Panajachel leaves at 7.30pm but from San Pedro it is 5.00pm). The service consists of several identical motorboats, or lanchas, with basic wooden bench seats in an open ended cabin. You board from the back and climb over the benches and other passengers to get to a spare seat.

San Marcos dock

Depending on how far you are going, the price per trip varies from Q10 to Q25 and it goes without saying that they accept cash only. You will find that tourists generally pay twice as much as locals. We were told that this is normal as locals use these lanchas for their daily commute, so don’t worry, you’re not being ripped off! There are some small towns and even hotels which have docks off the usual water taxi route, the captain will normally deviate his course if you ask him to in advance – in return be prepared to pay an extra Q5. Try and pay either the exact fare or close to it, as you’ll be unlikely to get change from Q10.

FromToFare price
PanajachelSanta CruzQ10
PanajachelSan MarcosQ25
PanajachelSan PedroQ25
San MarcosSanta CruzQ10
San PedroSanta CruzQ20
San PedroSan MarcosQ10
Table of approximate water taxi fares

The mornings are generally much calmer here than the afternoons, when the lake tends to become quite choppy. This means the journeys are much quicker and more comfortable in the mornings. In the afternoons, some captains take the waves slowly which adds time on to the trip, whereas others prefer to launch their boats from one wave to the other, slapping it into the lake surface and sending spray flying.

Panajachel docks – note the captains sitting on the left wearing white polos with orange trim

One thing to watch out for on your first few trips across the lake, is to make sure to get a public lancha, rather than the more expensive private service. The public lanchas can be identified by the captain’s uniform which is always a white polo with orange trim and a ships wheel logo. It is always quite a clamour at the docks in Panajachel, as captains vie for customers by creating a sense of false urgency to pressure first-timers into making a split second decision to jump on their boat.  It can be quite an intimidating experience when you’re new to the area, but you do get used to it after a few journeys. When we arrived at the docks on our shuttle from Antigua, one of the captains even picked up our bag and loaded it on his boat in an attempt to guarantee our service and our money. Luckily we were wise to scams such as this and simply went and took our bag back, preferring to take stock of the situation, before being rushed onto one of the lanchas without knowing what was going on. We would recommend taking your time at the docks to make sure you feel comfortable before engaging with one of the captains.

Getting Around Guatemala

The three main stops you should plan into your Guatemalan adventure are Tikal, Lake Atitlan and Antigua. The impressive Mayan ruins of Tikal are some of the best preserved Mayan ruins in the world and still stand tall, protruding above the jungle canopy. Lake Atitlan, bordered by three volcanoes, is one of the most picturesque places and if you believe in such a thing, it is said to be one of the World’s three positive energy vortexes. And finally the colourful cobbled streets of Antigua, the old colonial capital of Guatemala, are a great place to experience some more of the country’s rich culture. If you are interested in reading more about these destinations, take a look at our two week Guatemalan itinerary. This short blog is designed to help you join up these three extraordinary places.

The most common way to get around Guatemala is by road and, in particular, by Chicken bus (or “camionettas”). With no rail network, Chicken buses are a well known and very well used form of transport around Guatemala and they have an extremely comprehensive coverage of the country. It’s not clear why they are called Chicken buses, perhaps it is because people are crammed into them like chickens in a battery farm or because locals sometimes bring their chickens with them on the bus.

Chicken buses are old American school buses decked out with vibrant paint jobs, some glitzy chrome trim and a funky sounding horn (which gets plenty of use). With the lurid decoration, the loud revs of the engine and the strong smell of the exhaust, Chicken buses truly are an assault on the senses. And for this reason they are on many travellers’ must-do list for a trip to Guatemala. Tickets for Chicken Buses are purchased on the bus itself and you catch them from the main bus stations in each town.

The buses are generally safe; having been designed for school children in the United States, safety was the number one criteria. Having said that, even a safe tool in the wrong hands can be a little sketchy at times. The drivers generally have an exuberant driving style, overtaking on bends and driving at break neck speed and there is the odd chance you won’t be re-united with your suitcase which is strapped to the roof of the bus for the duration of journey. The occasional robbery has been reported as well. For these reasons there are often mixed opinions on whether catching the Chicken bus is a good idea, is it worth the risk for an authentic Guatemalan experience? We didn’t think it was, because the alternatives aren’t outrageously expensive and are often much safer and more convenient. This blog looks at the non-Chicken bus options for getting around.

A couple of garishly coloured chicken buses

Tikal (Flores) To Guatemala City

Located up near Flores, Tikal is considerably further north than Lake Atitlan and Antigua, which gives you the option of an extremely long bus ride, or a short flight. We opted for the latter, a short flight from the tiny airport in Flores to Guatemala City. It did mean that we had to put all our trust into an aeroplane the size of a coke can. There are a few flights a day for £100 or less (some with TAG Airlines and some with Avianca) and the journey time is almost exactly an hour.

The tiny TAG Airlines aircraft at Flores Airport

If you can’t justify putting yourself several thousand feet into the air in such a tiny aircraft, or if you fancy saving a few bucks, the bus is a viable option. It is cheaper (prices range from £17-50) but the journey from Flores to Guatemala City takes around 8 hours. For travellers who are concerned about wasting a crucial day on a bus, there is the option to catch it in the evening and spend the night on it. The buses are quite plush coaches and the route is non-stop, so this can be quite a popular option.

There are two reliable shuttle bus operators which make the direct journey from Flores Santa Elena bus station to Guatemala City bus station; Linea Dorada and Autobuses FDN. Linea Dorada runs 4 times a day and Autobuses FDN runs every 3 hours, so there is essentially a bus every hour. Rome2Rio provide useful information and a bus schedule for this journey. It isn’t possible to buy the bus tickets online, so we would recommend asking a travel agency to book them over the phone for you, or to book them at the bus station itself ahead of your journey.

Guatemala City To Antigua

The drive from Guatemala City to Antigua which takes between 1 and 2 hours depending on traffic in GC.

We booked a shuttle bus ahead of time with Atitrans, a Guatemalan travel agency recommended by our accommodation, who drove us from La Aurora international airport in Guatemala City to the Atitrans headquarters in Antigua (we then went straight on to Lake Atitlan as we planned to visit the lake first – but all shuttles – unless it is a private one – stop in Antigua first as it is more economical for the drivers to take visitors bound for both destinations). This part of the leg cost around £13.

The colourful cobbled streets of Antigua

There is also a public shuttle bus which runs from the airport to Antigua all day until about 8pm. As you exit the airport, there should be someone holding a sign with Antigua scrawled on it. This is by far the most cost effective method of transport if you are travelling alone, as the price is only $10 – but make sure to pay the driver directly to avoid paying twice! The shuttle should drop you off at your accommodation or at an address you provide, just tell the driver clearly where you want to go when you pay him. The main downside of the shuttle is that it doesn’t really stick to a timetable– it simply goes when it is full, and if it isn’t full, it will sit there until it is.

There are also official taxis which run from La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. These are the most convenient way of travelling, but they will set you back about $40 for the 40 mile journey. The key here is to make sure you get into an official taxi, rather than a normal taxi where you could be scammed. Uber is also available in Guatemala City and this can be quite economical if you are travelling as part of a group as you can split the $20-$30 fare between a few of you.

Antigua to lake Atitlan

As mentioned above, if you’re travelling from Guatemela City to Lake Atitlan, all public shuttles will stop at Antigua on the way. We spent an hour or so here, while we waited for another bus to take us the rest of the way. The drive from Antigua to Atitlan takes about 2 and a half hours by shuttle bus which runs approximately every 3 hours or so, and cost us around £13. Again, we used the travel agency Atitrans for this journey.

The public shuttles and buses will generally drop you at Panajachel dock, the gateway to the lake and the main transport hub. If you are not staying here, then you will need to embark on the fourth leg of the journey, by boat across the lake. Please see our blog Getting Around Lake Atitlan for more information on this.

Panajachel dock

Some hotels offer private shuttles themselves from Antigua or from Guatemala City, rather than outsourcing them to travel agencies. Prices will vary significantly but are generally likely to be quite expensive. One hotel we stayed in offered a price of $120 all the way from GC and $110 from Antigua. Of course, this is much more convenient because the shuttle will not make any stopes (e.g. in Antigua) on the way and should be able to take you all the way to your hotel, rather than dropping you in Panajachel.

Two further websites which might help with planning this journey are transportguatemala.com and shuttleguatemala.com.