Where to Eat & Drink in Hvar

There are a lot of great places to eat and drink in Hvar – the island is a well known as an upmarket party destination, with plenty of venues for a casual afternoon drink in the sun and chic bars lining the water front where you can rub shoulders with celebs in the evening. That’s not to say the place is particularly rowdy or tacky however, it also caters for families and couples and has plenty of stellar cuisine options. If you are looking for more information on Hvar generally, see our Croatian itinerary.

BLACK PEPPER

Situated on a quiet stair-cased alleyway climbing up from the main square, Black Pepper is a great little find. Their niche is to recommend a specific type of pepper or salt with each dish and it really does seem to work. The passion with which the waiters introduce their variety of pepper, from Paraguayan Pepper to Madagascan, is contagious, and even the puddings come with a sprinkling of Hawaiian sea salt. The atmosphere is incredibly friendly and they go out of their way to make you feel at home with a rose rakija to greet you followed by an amuse bouche. We had two excellent steaks, one beef, one shark, both washed down with an extremely reasonable and tasty litre carafe of Croatian red wine. A great meal out.

Black Pepper

DALMATINO

Dalmatino

This steak and fish house in the heart of Hvar served what Stu claims is one of the best steaks he’s have ever had. The restaurant itself was nice and the staff were friendly but it wouldn’t matter if this wasn’t the case because the food is absolutely gorgeous and that’s all you need to know. We sat outside in the street on a nice pot plant lined table soaking up the evening bustle of the town, that’s about all Stu remembers, apart from how good the steak was.

FALKO

Falko is a lovely little cafe-come-bar a short walk round the sea front from Hvar town. It feels very homely, almost like you’re eating in someone’s garden, with its stone flag path leading off the main sea front up to the cafe itself and its assortment of wicker chairs and hammocks plonked either side of it. Sails tied between the pine trees surrounding the tables offer a welcome break from the sun. Overall it’s a much more relaxing vibe than some of the beach bars closer to town. Here you can get a nice simple lunch such as a toastie, a salad or a pasta dish.

Falko

HULA HULA BAR

Hula Hula Bar

One of the places to soak up the sun by the sea with some drinks – be it beers or cocktails – this bar has you covered. The bar is usually crammed with tourists taking up every ounce of space on the wooden decking jutting out into the sea. With the loud music and party atmosphere, it’s a great place to set up for the afternoon if you’re in a group, so some of you can guard the table while others go for a dip to cool off.

Carpe Diem

Carpe Diem is like marmite, some love it, some hate it. It is split between the bar on the Riva by the ferry docks and the beach bar on Stipanska Island (one of the Pakleni Islands off the south coast of Hvar). The bar on the Riva attracts the tourists from the town with its luxurious stone interior and palm-lined terrace by the harbour. As the evening goes on, water taxis (which are included in the entry fee) ferry you across to the beach bar for the real party. Lead by some big name DJs, the parties at Carpe Diem beach bar are extremely popular and require full commitment. During the day, both bars offer drinks and cocktails which you can enjoy in comfy low sofas accompanied by chilled lounge rhythms. We found both Carpe Diem bars a little pretentious and over-hyped when we stopped in for a drink. Prices were expensive, the atmosphere felt fake and the beach was very busy and not particularly clean either. We preferred some of the cafes on the other islands for a drink, they were quieter and much prettier.

Where to Eat & Drink in Split

Split is Croatia’s second largest city and one of its popular tourist destinations so it makes sense that it has plenty of places to eat and drink. In the old town there are lots of little gems hidden away in the narrow alleyways and of course there are some large parasol shaded restaurants all along the Riva by the sea. (For more information on Split, and Croatia more generally, see our Croatian itinerary.)

MAZZGOON

Mazzgoon, the self proclaimed “Stubbornest Restaurant in Split”, prides itself on persevering to provide the best food and the best service they possibly can. The name comes from the Dalmatian word for mule, a strong, hard working animal which embodies the restaurant owner’s beliefs. Situated just outside the western gate Diocletian’s Palace, it looks no different on the outside to all the other stone walled buildings on its street. The interior is a stylish juxtaposition of new and old and the quiet shady courtyard out the back is a welcome break from the hordes of tourists traipsing back and forth along the streets. The food and the wine is excellent, with clear dalmatian roots intertwined with an international influence.

Mazzgoon

ZINFANDEL WINE BAR

Zinfandel wine bar

With over 100 different bottles of wine available at any one time, the choice of wine here is more than you could ever ask for. Zinfandel, a grape which has been made famous in Californian vineyards, has its roots in the vineyards surrounding Split. This is a fabulous place to come in the evening and try some local Dalmatian wine, listen to live music (which plays every night in the summer) and top it off with some high quality food from the seasonal menu. Zinfandel also run wine tasting sessions aiming to bring their customers closer to Croatian wines.

LUXOR

Luxor, housed in the aches of Diocletian’s Palace, is named after the city in Egypt where the sphinx originates from. The emperor Diocletian brought many sphinxes from Luxor to guard his palace and they are still there today, guarding the imperial square where Luxor Cafe & restaurant is based. In the evenings the stairs lining the square are peppered with people who have come to listen to the live music which is performed every night during the summer. The waiters from Luxor know the old classics well and often join in the performance as they fetch and carry sweet treats out to customers on the steps. The atmosphere here in the evening is certainly worth stopping in for.