Day 1: Flores

Spend most of the day travelling to Flores – most likely by flying from Guatemala City.

Flores is a cute town, with colourful houses and some interesting shops and restaurants. However, it is tiny and the main reason to stay here is its proximity to Tikal National Park.

We did end up having a very enjoyable evening at Raices Grill, getting our first taste of Guatemalan food (steak served in a tupperware – don’t ask) and music (it is one of a kind).

Day 2: Tikal

Rise early for the main event, Tikal National Park. There are multiple tour agencies in Flores town offering very similar day trips (including a bus there and back and a tour guide), leaving at 4am / 8am / midday. We were told that 4am is best for seeing wildlife whilst there, but after a full day’s travelling the day before, we opted for 8am. 

Set in the heart of the jungle, Tikal was the capital of a state that became one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya. You can easily spend several hours exploring the temples, monuments and tombs and climbing up for views of the top of citadels poking out above the trees.

Day 3: Lake Atitlan (Santa Cruz)

Brace yourself for another long day’s travel to Lake Atitlan, alternatively go to Antigua first (it’s on the way to the lake from Guatemala City). See our blog on Getting Around Guatemala for more information to help you join up the main destinations on this itinerary.

With its expanse of clear blue water, surrounded by volcanoes and dotted with Mayan villages – each with a character of its own – the peaceful Lake Atitlan is truly spell-binding. Locals claim it is one of only a number of energy vortexes in the world, and after a few days on the lake, you will be hard-pressed not to leave feeling beautifully zen. 

We chose to spend our first few days at Santa Cruz La Laguna, on the north side of the lake. The tiniest of all the villages but arguably the most picturesque, Santa Cruz stole our hearts. With no road access and only a handful of accommodation scattered along the waterfront, it is entirely secluded. The main village itself is perched high on the hillside and retains a charming, authentic quality.

It will no doubt be evening by the time you arrive. Keep it easy for your first night and eat at your hotel (most, if not all accommodation provide food options given the size of the village).

Day 4: Lake Atitlan (Santa Cruz)

Spend your first proper day enjoying the Santa Cruz waterfront. You can take a gorgeous walk along the shoreline running west to east (or vice-versa) and back again (for approx. 1 hour) along rickety walkways and bridges, fitting in a swim in the calm waters once you’ve worked up a sweat. 

Rent a kayak from Los Elements Adventure Centre or a paddle board from Stand Up Paddle Atitlan (who also do tours) for a peaceful paddle and views of Santa Cruz from the water.

Head to La Iguana Perdida for their evening family style dinner (or a BBQ if it’s a Saturday) and beers overlooking the lake.

Day 5: Lake Atitlan (Santa Cruz)

Head up the steep winding path to Santa Cruz village – we highly recommend taking a tuk-tuk up (there are plenty at the main dock) and walking back down. 

The village centre is tiny, it will take you just a few minutes to stroll around the main square, taking a look at the small white church and local school. 

Visit CECAP (the tall yellow building is hard to miss). CECAP is a non profit organisation which trains hundreds of local students every year in culinary skills, weaving, carpentry and more. Call ahead for a short tour. There is also a shop selling handmade crafts from students and a rooftop cafe offering stunning views of the lake and volcanoes. Run by graduates of the culinary programme, the cafe offers simple and authentic Guatemalan dishes and smoothies.

Day 6: Lake Atitlan (Santa Cruz / Panajachel)

Catch the water taxi to Panajachel for the day (approx. 15 minutes from Santa Cruz). See our short blog Getting Around Lake Atitlan for more information on using the water taxis or “Lanchas” as they are known. As the main gateway to the lake, Panajachel is easily the busiest and most built up of the villages, which is why we chose not to base ourselves there. However, it is well-worth a visit for the day, if not for the wider choice of places to eat, but for the markets. We spent a good while losing ourselves in them, even coming away with a traditional Guatemalan rug we didn’t know we needed from the Handicraft Market!

Another highlight of Panajachel is the zip-lining – opt for the “Ultra X-Tremos” course at the Atitlan Nature Reserve (a 10 minute tuk-tuk ride from Panajachel docks) and find yourself soaring through the sky up to 3000 feet above the lake against the backdrop of the lake’s volcanoes. The short hike up to the start of the cables is an adventure in itself, taking you past waterfalls and along hanging walkways.

Make sure to be back at the Panajachel docks in time for the last ferry, and head home to the peace and quiet of Santa Cruz, perhaps just in time to catch one of its glorious sunsets.

Day 7: Lake Atitlan (San Marcos)

We chose to spend the next few days staying in San Marcos La Laguna. Known for being a hippie’s paradise, you certainly will find plenty of meditation centres, yoga courses and massage places if that’s what you’re into, but aside from that it is a laid-back, friendly village with plenty of fresh delicious food (not all vegan!) and views to die for. 

Start with a short stroll around the town, which is still tiny but, thanks to the larger number of expats and visitors, has a greater variety of accommodation and food options compared to Santa Cruz. Start from the main dock, where you will join a tree-shaded path lined with colourful street art and tapestries taking you further up towards the scattering of restaurants, shops and yoga-establishments. 

Spend the afternoon at the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve – one of our highlights of the lake. It’s an area with easy access to the lake, with beautifully clean water to swim in, platforms and rope swings to jump from, and rocks to sunbathe on. You can easily pass a whole afternoon relaxing here and taking in the sweeping vista of the lake’s volcanoes. There are also kayaks for rent at the entrance to the reserve.

Finish off the day with a mojito at Fe, who also do delicious middle eastern cuisine.

Day 8: Lake Atitlan (San Marcos)

Set out early and take a lakeside hike from San Marcos to Santa Cruz (approx. 2-2.5hrs). Pass through small villages and maize fields high up on the hillside, and take in the panoramic views. It was recommended to us that we go with a guide to avoid any incidents with banditos (though rare, we thought this was probably a sensible precaution). Catch a ferry back to San Marcos afterwards.

Spend the afternoon immersing yourself in a yoga session (or similar). Defying certain stereotypes for our generation, we cannot claim to be avid yogis, but with signs at every corner, you will be hard-pressed not to find something in that department to your liking. 

In the evening, head to the main pontoon for a spectacular sunset over the San Pedro, Tolimán and Atitlan volcanoes, before a slap up Italian meal at Tul Y Sol.

Day 9: Lake Atitlan (San Marcos / San Juan / San Pedro)

Spend the day exploring other villages on the lake. Our blog Getting Around Lake Atitlan will help you plan your trips to each village. Take a short boat ride to San Juan, a quaint village home to a variety of local cooperatives. Walk up the steep hill dotted with workshops and friendly faces eager to show you their crafts – from honey to paintings. Undoubtedly the predominant trade of the town is weaving – try your hand at it following a demonstration (unsurprisingly it is far harder than it looks!).

Next, take the water taxi to San Pedro, one of the more buzzing towns which most backpackers tend to flock to. Wander through the town and grab a bite to eat with a view. There are a number of cooking classes on offer and it is from here that you can embark on the challenging hike up San Pedro volcano (though we chose to save our strength for Volcan Pacaya near Antigua).

Back at San Marcos, have one final sunset drink at the lakeside bar of Posada Schumann. If you feel like some different cuisine, try Allala – a Japanese restaurant with a fantastic atmosphere tucked away in town. 

Day 10: Antigua

Spend the morning travelling to Antigua, see our blog Getting Around Guatemala for more information on this journey. Antigua is the former colonial capital of Guatemala, largely destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century and rebuilt into an enticing multi-coloured baroque style city, and framed by mountains and volcanoes shrouded in clouds. The cobblestone streets form a perfectly designed grid, and ruins of previous monuments still scatter the area. Take a stroll through the town, spotting fabulous food and drink options and beautifully restored colonial shop fronts.

A short hike up to the Cerro de la Cruz viewpoint will reward you with a stunning birds eye view of the whole of Antigua. 

Finish up with a sunset drink with views over the rooftops towards the volcanoes in the distance at one of Antigua’s many rooftop bars (try Cafe Sky), and indulge in an authentic Indian meal at Toko Baru.

Day 11: Antigua

Brace yourself for a day of food. Visit the ChocoMuseo, which offers free tours to take you through the origin, history and full production process of chocolate. Book onto a “bean to bar” workshop for a hands-on experience of the chocolate making process, where you will learn to make a Mayan chocolate drink, as well as chocolates to take home afterwards.

Walk off the chocolate by exploring the streets of Antigua and the main square. The cathedral which dominates the square has had a difficult history, having been destroyed twice in two different earthquakes. It has since been restored to its former glory.

Be sure to only have a small lunch before taking a cooking class at La Tortilla cooking school, where in a small group you will learn to make a number of different traditional Guatemalan recipes, before sitting down to enjoy the fruits of your labour for dinner. 

Day 12: Pacaya volcano

Pacaya is an active volcano just over one hour’s drive from Antigua. Its accessibility and almost continuous activity make it a popular visit amongst tourists. Sure enough, after a 1-2 hour (soaking wet) hike up, we were rewarded with an incredible sight – bright orange lava rolling down Pacaya’s peak. Apparently this was a very lucky occurrence, but every visit offers the chance to toast marshmallows on the rocks scorched with hot ash, a once in a lifetime opportunity!

After an exhausting day, treat yourself to a delicious al fresco pizza in Angie Angie’s garden accompanied by live music. 

Pacaya Volcano

Day 13: Antigua 

Experience a day in the life of a Guatemalan coffee farmer with De la Gente – a community tourism project supporting local farmers. Led by a local small-holder farmer, you will be taken part way up Agua Volcano to the coffee fields, where you will learn about the process of growing and harvesting coffee beans. You will then visit the farmer’s house, where you can try your hand at the process of grinding and roasting coffee beans, before finally getting a taste of a freshly brewed cup, and even getting to take a bag of coffee home. 

Back in Antigua town, toast the end of your travels with a cocktail at Cafe No Se. 

De la Gente Coffee Experience

Day 14: Travel home

Make your way home from Guatemala City airport, or see our Mexico & Belize itinerary if you want to keep your Central American adventure alive!

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