Day 1: Vientiane

Vientiane is not your typical larger-than-life Asian capital city. The sleepy French colonial city stretching along the Mekong makes for a sedate and pleasant base for expats, but there is not a whole lot to “do” for visitors. That said, you will likely be using Vientiane as your main gateway into the country, so it is still worth spending the day hitting up some of the historical sites before heading off to Vang Vieng. We took a tuk-tuk for a spot of temple-hopping around the city (don’t forget to cover up before entering the temples).

First, head to the hard-to-miss Patuxai Victory Monument (dedicated to those who fought for independence from France) which you can climb to the top of for soaring views of the city. Next, head to the gold leaf Buddhist stupa, Pha That Luang, where you can explore the courtyards and gardens, and set eyes on the reclining buddha. Then wander around Wat Si Saket, home to over ten thousands images of the Buddha in various forms. Finally, visit Haw Phra Kaew, a beautiful temple with visibly strong Thai influences.

Finish up with a drink (try the local Beerlao) by the Mekong and feast on crepes at Suzette Creperie.

Day 2: Vang Vieng

Drive the 3 – 4 hours to Vang Vieng (there are plenty of shared minivans that make this journey which your accommodation can recommend). Once known as a hedonistic “party town” where the toxic mix of alcohol, drugs and river tubing had disastrous consequences, Vang Vieng has more recently reinvented itself as a hub for outdoor adventure and jaw dropping scenery. The town itself is still nothing special, but its setting amongst limestone karsts and emerald paddy fields is quite simply idyllic.

Start off by getting your bearings with a quick stroll around the town, which is tiny and dotted with casual eateries and bars. It’s certainly no Luang Prabang, but we enjoyed the friendly, sociable atmosphere, and it was very easy to book all our activities at the handful of tour operators in town.

Make sure to walk across the mini toll bridge over the Nam Song River and pop into the countryside grounds of Villa Vieng Tara for a glimpse of the real Vang Vieng (as pictured in the cover photo), featuring wooden board walks across the paddy fields with towering rock karsts in the background.

Finish up with dinner and drinks in one of the casual restaurants in town.

 Day 3: Vang Vieng

Today is the day for tubing down the Nam Song River. With just three or so bars left open along the riverside since the clamp down, this is a much more serene (and safe) affair than it was in the past and it is still an incredible way to spend the day.

There is one river tubing company operating in town (anyone will be able to point you in their direction), so just sign up there for a time slot. The company will drive you and the rest of your group (we were in a group of about 10 people) approximately 3km up the river to the starting point, where you and your tube will embark on an adventure of a lifetime down the river, accompanied by a guide. The river moves at a comfortable pace, so lean back, relax, and let the water gently float you along. The fun really begins when you get to the first bar – the bar owners will throw out ropes for you to (rather comically) grab on to and haul yourself in with. At each bar you have the chance to have a couple of drinks sitting right above the river, some bars have rope swings, others have beer pong. We were lucky enough to be in a sociable group of backpackers which added to the fun – we were all tubing in tandem by the end of the trip.

Once the tubing is over, head merrily back to your accommodation to clean up before heading out for food and more drinks, maybe even with some new-found tubing friends.

Day 4: Vang Vieng

It’s your second day in Vang Vieng and it’s another day of adventure-seeking. Sign up for an all day activity extravaganza at one of the many tour groups in town – almost all feature a day of kayaking, zip- lining, cave tubing and lagoon-dipping.

The day will start with a lift to the top of the river, where you will launch off in one or two-man kayaks and navigate the flowing waters with, quite frankly, far more control than in a tube! We loved the 1-2 hour paddle downstream, taking in the beautiful karst scenery and buffalo-strewn paddy fields. Next, you will moor up at the shores of the river and set off for some zip-lining. To get to the zip wires you will need to climb up bamboo ladders and navigate swing bridges, which is an adventure in itself. The zip lines offer stunning views across the river and through the surrounding karsts. It is well worth bringing along a go pro (or similar device) if you have one.

After lunch, you will swap the heights and the views of the zipline for a tractor tyre tube and be led into a cave. You will be given a head torch, told to hold onto a rope that runs through the cave and then you will simply float into the darkness. Your level of enjoyment during this part of the tour will likely depend on your fear of the dark / small spaces – but whatever you do, keep hold of that rope!

Your trip will end with a visit to the blue lagoon – for us this was the least exciting part of the tour, whilst the lagoon is large and does have swings to jump into the water from, it is clearly man-made and gets extremely busy with tour groups by the afternoon.

Day 5: Vang Vieng

Spend your final day on a buggy tour – lasting approx 2 hours you will zoom through the countryside on dirt track roads coming across stupendous scenery. Whilst the concept of health and safety was entirely absent (helmets would have been welcome!) this was a thoroughly exhilarating (and be warned – extremely muddy) experience! The quads take you to a different and much nicer blue lagoon than the day before.

Day 6: Luang Prabang

Drive the 3.5 – 4 hours north to Luang Prabang (again, your accommodation can help you book a minivan to take you there).

Luang Prabang is a beautiful town scattered with golden temples, pretty shopfronts, and French bakeries. With stunning viewpoints and waterfalls nearby, it is no wonder that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

If you are trying to work out what time of year to visit, take a look at our blog on The Festival of Light which takes place in October and is definitely worth factoring into your decision. During this festival, Luang Prabang comes alive, covering its streets and temples with candles and multi-coloured lanterns. A magical procession of dragon boats makes its way down the main street and race along the Mekong River.

Begin your visit by climbing the 300 steps to the top of Mount Phusi (“sacred hill”) for a panoramic view of the town, with the Mekong on one side and Nam Khan river on the other. Visit the shrines and temples along the way, including the impressive Buddhist temple Wat Tham Phou Si.

Once back in town, have dinner at Cafe Toui – a perfect introduction to traditional Laotian food.

Day 7: Luang Prabang

Hit up the main cultural sites in town, starting with the National Museum, the former Royal Palace (which is closed 11.30am – 1pm) which features a blend of traditional Laotian and modern French styles. Next, visit some of the 30 Buddhist temples dotted throughout the small town – don’t miss Wat Xieng Thong, one of the eldest and largest religious sites in Luang Prabang, encompassing several enchanting gold-leaf buildings in its grounds.

Grab lunch at Le Banneton near Wat Xieng Thong which serves up fresh salads and authentic French delights such as croque monsieurs.

After lunch, visit the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (“TAEC”), an interactive non-profit museum offering a fascinating insight into the four ethnic groups in the region, as well as free guided tours and handicraft workshops.

Book into an evening cooking class with Tamarind Cooking School. When we visited it was the most popular cooking class in town and after spending the evening with them, we could see why. Tamarind’s chef will take you, as part of a small group, to a beautifully shaded spot for some alfresco cooking. The whole experience is completely seamless and you are given the chance to cook 4-5 Laotian dishes yourself (instead of everyone contributing to one or two dishes as in other classes we have tried) which gave a real sense of achievement – and control over how many chillies went into the mix! The class ended with a delicious feast of everything we had made.

Day 8: Luang Prabang

Rise early (approx. 5am) to see the monks collecting alms. A tradition dating back to the 14th century, hundreds of Buddhist monks depart from their temples and visit the town at dawn to gather daily meal donations from locals. It is certainly an interesting insight into Buddhist culture, but be warned that it is not a well-kept secret and can be quite a touristy affair!

Since you are already up early, take the chance to visit the famous Kuangsi waterfall before the crowds descend. About 30-40 minutes away by tuk tuk, Kuangsi is a magnificent waterfall tumbling into three cascading pools surrounded by the jungle. There are plenty of places to jump into the water and it makes for a sublime morning swimming spot.

After a full-on morning, head back to Luang Prabang town and relax at Utopia, a bohemian style café with river-side beds serving up delicious chicken satay and milkshakes.

Day 9: Luang prabang

Visit Elephant Village, just outside of Luang Prabang. Whilst Laos was once known as the “Land of a Million Elephants”, Lao’s elephants are now a seriously endangered species – it is thought that there are possibly only 1000 elephants remaining.

Elephant Village was developed to rescue and care for former working elephants by removing them from abusive environments and giving them the opportunity to work in a safe, secure space in sustainable tourism. The organisation also exclusively hires employees from the local communities, including the Mahouts (elephant keepers).

On your visit you can do a full or half day Mahout training course, where you learn to look after an elephant for the day (just like a Mahout / elephant keeper). You will be paired with your own elephant and a local Mahout and learn all about your elephant, including how to feed and clean them, and you will trek and swim with your elephant as part of the experience. We found the day to be well run and very informative. We would recommend the Elephant Village over other experiences as it was clear that the elephants were well looked after.

Once back in town, if you fancy something non-Asian for dinner, try the Blue Lagoon restaurant, serving upscale European fare in a lovely courtyard setting.

Day 10: Luang Prabang

It’s your last day! Take a trip to the nearby Living Land Farm. This is a community enterprise that specialises in growing the infamous Laotian sticky rice. By taking part in their “Rice Experience” set amongst idyllic paddy fields, you will get the chance to learn all about the end-to-end process of planting, growing and harvesting rice, led by a local farmer. This was an excellent hands-on and immersive experience – you even get to try your hand at ploughing the rice paddy with a buffalo.

Dine at the truly special Dyen Sabai for your final night. In a secluded spot across the river set amongst bamboo huts and tranquil gardens, Dyen Sabai’s speciality is a traditional Laotian barbecue (similar to a Korean barbecue). The only way to get to the restaurant is by a boat, which the restaurant provides free of charge and runs back and forth across the river all evening.

Finally, enjoy the rest of your evening before flying home or continuing on your journey to your next destination!

Blog Posts on Laos